Introduction to Fashion: The Evolution of Fashion

DUE TODAY - Paragraph discussing three trends from the Paris Fashion Week Show.

Quiz Today on the Reading. Be prepared to answer the question: What is the problem that the writer is concerned about?

Fashionista Aptitude Test

Mostly A Answers:

CREATOR - designer

Extrovert, outgoing, love life, beauty and material comforts, like reaffirmations, spontaneous, like being the center of attention, dislike structure, like being dramatic, perfectionist

Mostly B Answers:

VISUALIZER - photographers, agent, model, stylist

Introspective, sensitive, quiet, tolerant of others, flexible, unscheduled, strong values, emotional, collaborative in your comfort zone, loyal to friends, love travel

Mostly C Answers:

CRITIC - editor, blogger, forecaster, fashion writer, educator

Direct and frank, love learning, verbal, competitive, connects the dots, leader, like order, critical, structured, absorbs info quickly, loves to read, enjoys pop culture

Mostly DAnwers:

Mostly D Answers:SELLER - retailer, advertiser, buyer

Good with money, extroverted and social, thick skinned, realistic, driven, rational, efficient, practical, decisive, ambitious, like deadlines, benefit from criticism, look well groomed

The Evolution of Fashion

The world of fashion began with individual couturiers and evolved, as a result of the Industrial Revolution, into a mass market industry. By studying this evolution we become better equipped to understand the organization of the fashion industry and the direction in which it is moving.

Pre-Fashion

Prior to the late 1700's, fashion was made by individual, anonymous tailors and dressmakers. Only the upper class could afford to be fashionable.

In 1770, Rose Bertin emerged:

In 1845, Englishman Charles Frederick Worth emigrated to Paris, and became opened a couture house. Empress Eugenie was one of his clients.

The Industrial Revolution

• rise of the middle class

• machines made production easier

Inventions:

the flying shuttle - John Kay
the spinning jenny - James Hargreaves
the cotton gin - Eli Whitney
THE SEWING MACHINE! - Isaac Singer

Unionization and the Garment Industry

• sweatshops
• the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory

THE RISE OF RETAILING

Limited line or specialty stores
• Nordstrom - 1901 - began to open chain stores

Department Stores
• Dayton's 1902
• Henri Bendel 1912
Macy's, Filenes, Wanamaker's , Neiman Marcus

Mail Order
• Montgomery Ward 1872
• Sears and Roebuck 1893

SEGMENTS OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

Textiles

• mills
• vertical operations
• converters

Manufacturers

Many manufacturers participate in every phase of the construction operation, including designing the line, purchasing materials, making patterns, cutting and sewing and even marketing.

DKNY, Lacoste, Calvin Klein, Nine West all have their own stores

Some have more specialized functions and hire freelance or consultants to design their lines.

• Manufacturer's representatives - jobbers

• Limited function vs. full service wholesalers

Retailers

FEDERATED DEPARTMENT STORES
Bloomingdale's, Stern's, Macy's, Broadway, Marshall Field's

SEARS HOLDING
Sears, Kmart, Land's End, JCPenney - acquired Liz Claiborne label

• spinoff stores
• off price discounters
• designer outlets

Flagship Stores
Shopping Malls
Festival Marketplace
Enclosed outlet centers